Footwear



I. W. DAVID Nov. 17, 1931.

FOOTWEAR Filed July 19. 1930 ATTORNE Patented Nov. 17, 1931 IRWIN W. DAVID, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

FOOTWEAR Application filed July 19,

This invention relates to an improvement in foot wear, and in particular to the construction of the type of shoe ordinarily, though not necessarily, Worn by women.

Among the objects of this invention are to provide a shoe which will have a forepart that is flexible and expansible with the foot, giving greatly increased comfort, and which has a heel of greater strength and rigidity than the forepa-rt in order to provide a sturdy and rigid heel construction substantially free from lateral expansibility, to provide a shoe which with existing machinery may be built in combination widths, as for example, a heel ofA width and forepart of B width, to provide in combination with a soft and flexible forepart a heel portion capable ofcontaining a counter to give strength to the heel. and enable it to be formed in the so-called tailored shape. to provide a shoe which will not tear the stocking in the heel portion, to provide a shoe which is flexible and yielding in the forepart but at the same time is capable of containing a metal shank concealed in the shank portion to strengthen it and support the foot, and to provide a shoe having a molded and exoansible forepa-rt which may be combined with a full-breasted heel.

In the drawings annexed hereto, and which form a part of this specification,

Fig. 1 is a vertical elevation of a shoe built in accordance with my invention, and having a Cuban heel.

Fig. 2 is a vertical section on the line 2, 2 of Fig.1.

Fig. 3 is a vertical section on the line 3, 3 of Fig. 1.

F g. 3a is a vertical section on the line 3, 3 of Fig 1. showing the method of insertion of the stitches before the leather flanges 12 are restored to their normal position.

Fig. 4 is a plan view of a sole piece cut to a suitable shape for incorporation in a shoe embodying my invention. and showing in dotted lines the approximate out-line of the shoe when the edges have been molded up. Fig. 5 is a vertical section through a portion of the shoe of Fig. 1 taken in the plane indicated by the line 5, 5 of Fig. 3.

'1 as indicated in Fig. 3a and the inturnod 1-930. Serial No. $9,045.

Fig. 6 is a vertical section similar to that of Fig. 5, except that the shoe disclosed embodies a full-breasted heel instead of a Cuban heeL Fig. 7 is a vertical section along the central lengthwise axis of my shoe, indicated by the line 7, 7 of 2 and Fig.

Fig. 8 is a vertical section on the line 8, 8 of Fig 7.

Like reference numerals in the several drawings indicate like parts.

In accordance with my invention I form a sole 1 having a heel portion 2 (see Fig. 4) of the usual size and shape and having a fore-part 3 materially larger than the shape I of the shoe which it is desired to form. There is thus provided a marginal edge i extending aroundthe forepart of the sole. This marginal edge is molded upwardly while the leather is moist, to the position shown in section in Fig. 2, thus initially giving shape to theforepart of the shoe from the toe to theinstep. To the upstanding marginal edge, thus formed, there is attached a suitable upper 19. For convenience, I lisclose herein an upper composed of woven leather strands 5 and 6but it will be understood that the invention is not limited in scope to any particular form of upper. The Woven leather strands engage with the upstanding margin at throu h a series of holes 7 punched therein. The upper for the forepart of the shoe is attached to the unturned marginal edge 4.- of the sole 1 from the toe of the shoe rearwardly along each side of the forepart to the point 8.

Rearwardly of the point 8 no further later- .al-ly-ext=ending flange is provided on the sole 1. but the sole is narrowed tov the normal width at the point 8. and rearwardly thereof 1 has a cross-section which is approximately rectangular at any point. Throu hout the instep and heel portions rearwardly of the ggzioint 8, the sole may be attached to the heel upper portion as follows: the marginal edges of the sole are partially split longitudinally thereof and a channel formed as indicated at 9.. 9 in Fig. 3a with depending flanges 12, '12., The quarter 10 is then ayixed to the sole flanges 20 of the quarter 10 and the channel 9 are fastened together by stitches 11. After the stitches 11 are in place, the depending flanges 12, 12 are returned to the position shown in Fig. and glued or pasted in position to cover the exposed stitching. A sock lining 13 may be inserted within the shoe to cover the exposed stitches on the inside of the shoe and to provide a smooth and attractive-appearin inner surface. 7

It will be understood that the channeling 9 is carried forward from the rear of the shoe to a point only as far forward as the quarter 10 extends. Ordinarily this will be in the neighborhood of point 8 (see Fig. 1).

A modified form of shoe is disclosed in Fig. 6. In this shoe the sole rcarwardly extending from the point 8 is laterally split across its full width and a lower lip or tongue 1 f, suitably scived, is curved downwardly and attached by glue or paste to the forward face of the heel lift 15. The upper portion of the sole is carried backwardly to the extreme rear of the shoe and the inturned flange 20 of the quarter 10 is attached to it by suitable stitches 1.1 as indicated in Fig. 6. It is thus possible to employ a fall-breasted heel in combination with an cxpansible and flexible forepart in my shoe.

A still further modification is indicated in Fin. '7 wherein the sole is carried upwardly and backwardly from the point 8 to a point of abutment at 16 with the forward face of the heel lift 15 but does not extend to the rear of the shoe. In this form of shoe the inturned flange 20 of the quarter 10 is nailed directly to the heel or lift by suitable nails 17, the sock lining 13 is atiixed in place in the usual manner, and the strengthening shank referred to below is firmly attached to the sole piece and the heel so as to unite the shoe in a strongnnitary structure.

The arrangement here disclosed, wherein the quarter stitched to the margin of the sole for a portion of the instep of the shoe, ermits the employment in the instep, and between the sole 1 and the sock lining 13, of a metal strip or saank 18 which serves to strengthen the shoe at the instep and prevent downward breakaae of the leather at this point while the shoe is in use. This shank is inserted in directcontact with the sole 1 and. after bein' lined in place, is covered by the sock linnz; 13 which serves to conceal it. it is thus possible in my shoe to provide an arch strengeeeninp; element and a stiff heel structure without sacrificing; softness and flexibility in the forcpart where the shoe is most apt to become uncomfortabl in use.

It is also possible. within the scone of my nvention to attach the int-uroed flanges 20 of the quarter 1.) to the sole 1 or to the heel ift 15 in any other ia'uinciu as for example by stitching entirely -rough the sole without preliminary channeling in a manner which will be understood, or by nailing, or by gluing or other ttachment by adhesive.

I claim:

1. A shoe comprising a sole member whose forepart u; wardly molded at the marginal edges of the shoe so that the outer surface of the lower portion of the side of the shoe in its forepart is continuous and integral with the under sru'face of the sole in said forepart, perforations near the upper edge or upwardly molded portion for the attachment of an upper, said sole in the part of the shoe rearwardly thereof having an approximately rectangular cross section without upturned marginal edges, and a quarter having inturned flanges at the base thereof for attachment to that portion of the sole which is approximately rectangular in cross-s ction.

2. I; shoe comprising a sole member whose 1 'epart is upwardly molded at the marial edges of the shoe so that the outer surof the lower portion of the side of the in its forepart is continuous and intep'ral with the under surface of the sole in sf 1 forcpart, perforations near the upper e of said upwardly molded portion for the attachment of an upper, said sole in the i t of the shoe rearwardly thereof being laterally split whereby it is divided into a lower portion for attachment against the forwan' face of the heel and an upper portion having an approximately rectangular crosssection without upturned marginal edges, and a quarter having inturned flanges at the base thereof for attachment to that portion of the sole which is approximately rectangular in cross-section.

8. A shoe comprising a sole member whose ferepart is vertically upturned at the marginal ed ,ucs of the shoe so that the outer surface of the side of the shoe in its forepart is continuous and integral with the under surface of the sole in said forepart, the up standing edges of the sole terminating in the region of the shank, said sole member rearwardly of said point having its marginal edges terminating approximately in the plane of the sides of the shoe without being upturned, a shank piece of strengthening material attacl'ied to said sole member in the shank reg on thereof. and a quarter having 3 at the base thereof for atinturned tachment to said sole member.

4. A shoe comprising a sole member whose lfOrSPMl) is upwardly molded at the marginal edofes or the shoe to an elevation above the plane of the sole su'llicient to give marked lateral erzpansibility when the shoe is in use and so that the outer surface of the lower portion of the side of the shoe in its forepart is cont nuous and integral with the under surface. of the sole in said forepart, perforations near the upper edge of said upwardly molded portion for the attachment of an upper, said sole in the part of the shoe rearwardly thereof having an approximately rectangular cross section Without upturned marginal edges, and a quarter having inturned flanges at the base thereof for attachment to that portion of the sole which is approximately rectangular in cross-section.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification.

IRWIN W. DAVID. 

